A Million Ways to Tomato and Egg


Like loads of other people studying this, I went by my Tunisian shakshuka part a pair years again, cooking numerous lovely skillets of chunky tomato sauce and eggs finished sunny-side up.

I really like these runny, sunny yolks—and so does Instagram—however I’ve since graduated to recipes the place the eggs and tomatoes aren’t merely bedfellows however get stirred collectively into creamy, custardy, tangy-sweet outcomes.

In any format, tomatoes and eggs are scrumptious, inexpensive, plentiful, and simple to cook dinner. However there’s one thing in regards to the barely much less camera-ready union of the 2—scrambled, stir-fried, simmered like sauce—that's undeniably soothing, and arguably extra pleasant.

I dig the quick sloppy scramble of Colombian huevos pericos (with contemporary inexperienced onions and tomatoes), and the delicate curds of the Turkish menemen within the e book Ripe Figs by Yasmin Khan, who makes use of peppers (dried and contemporary), browned onions, oregano, and blanched, peeled tomatoes sweetened with a pinch of sugar.

I’m additionally making Lagos-based meals author Flo Chinyere’s Nigerian egg stew. It’s a heavy-on-the-tomato, thick scrambled egg sauce made with very popular chiles and contemporary thyme, although I’ve seen some cooks add curry powder. It’s often served with boiled yams or inexperienced plantains, but it surely’s not too shabby on toast both. Within the Philippines, the same sarsiado is piled on prime of a complete fried fish, a recipe I discovered from chef Miguel Trinidad a number of years again once we had been engaged on the e book I Am a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook.

Perhaps it goes with out saying that the whole lot above is the consolation meals ne plus extremely for individuals who grew up consuming them, inextricably linked with reminiscences of residence.

Like many Chinese language People, Grace Younger discovered the tomato-egg alchemy as she was rising up. “My mother and father’ recipe reveals off the purity of the stir-fried tomato-egg expertise,” she advised me. They often made it round this time of 12 months, says Younger, when contemporary tomatoes are at their finest.

Their three-minute stir-fry—in her 2011 e book Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge—is straightforward to recollect. Beat 4 eggs with somewhat sesame oil, salt, pepper, and cilantro. Fry some garlic and shallots in a very popular wok; add two tomatoes, rice wine, and a pinch of sugar; then scramble within the eggs.

My present favourite wok-cooked model of tomatoes and eggs known as tukhum-bonjan, the Afghan dish taught to me by Nawida Saidhosin, an teacher on the League of Kitchens cooking school in New York Metropolis.

Saidhosin fries roughly chopped tomatoes in a number of inches of ghee within the backside of her karahi—the flat-bottomed model of the wok used throughout the Indian subcontinent—till the tomatoes are delicate and the fats is a deep golden orange.

She provides coarsely chopped jalapeños and garlic, then drops half a dozen or so eggs into the combo. With a spoon, she gently stirs the whites right into a scramble with the tomatoes, however she lets the yolks keep complete, serving them when they're simply barely set so to break them into chunks like a soft-boiled egg. Tukhum-bonjan is served with a number of contemporary mint leaves on Afghan flatbread—ideally, you get each in each chunk, says Saidhosin.

Tukhum-bonjan is at all times a style of residence for Saidhosin, who grew up in Kabul however left many years in the past to discover a extra secure place to reside. She’s been making it since she was 13, she says, after watching her mom do it practically day-after-day. “That is in every single place in Afghanistan,” she says. “Everyone is aware of tukhum-bonjan, and everyone likes tomatoes and eggs.”





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