Within the throes of the pandemic sourdough craze, whereas hundreds of interest bakers have been puzzling over what to do with one more loaf of bread, Caroline Schiff was considering means exterior the sandwich. The manager pastry chef of Brooklyn’s Gage & Tollner was experimenting with sourdough’s thrilling complexity in brownies, and its crunchy potential in streusels—touchdown on the notion that the method deserves a spot within the canon of desserts. Her experiments was The Sweet Side of Sourdough, a cookbook that arrived simply as many people have been puzzling on the sourdough starter behind the fridge and questioning what number of boules and pizzas we’d need to plow by with the intention to preserve it alive for one more winter.
The e book proves that sourdough’s candy facet isn’t nearly bread (though there is a salted honey focaccia and a darkish chocolate walnut boule). It’s additionally a information to including taste and texture to shortbreads, tart crusts, and blintzes. I requested Schiff about why sourdough might be such an important addition to desserts, and about a few of her favourite underrated makes use of for the discard, from granola to onion rings.
When folks consider sourdough, they normally suppose “bread.” Why ought to folks begin to widen their sourdough repertoires?
Sourdough is so versatile, and folks needs to be it like an ingredient, in addition to a solution to leaven a baked good. And bread is simply such an enormous class. Take into consideration what number of scrumptious issues fall underneath the bread umbrella however aren’t savory, crusty loaves! Cinnamon buns, doughnuts, brioche, babka. It’s countless, and sourdough can work in so many of those purposes.
In relation to one thing like a tart crust or a shortbread cookie, what does the sourdough starter deliver into the equation?
Sourdough provides a depth of taste, crispiness, and chewiness in all the fitting locations. My chocolate chip cookies are the proper instance. They've crispy edges with a superbly chewy heart, and an virtually savory high quality that provides them a sure je ne sais quoi.
How does sourdough make its means into the pastries you make at Gage & Tollner?
I really like sneaking sourdough into the menu anyplace I can. Clearly, we bake crusty miche loaves for dinner service day-after-day, however I’m recognized so as to add it to candy issues right here and there. My favourite is the malted chocolate torte, which is definitely within the e book as effectively, tailored for dwelling cooks. I exploit sourdough within the filling, and it’s simply bonkers how effectively it really works with each the darkish and milk candies.
I made your savory sourdough discard pancake for lunch at present. It’s so good, and it motivated me to feed my starter. Some other unfussy belongings you love to do with discard?
This makes me so glad to listen to! One other favourite utility is mixing the discard with only a contact of plain seltzer and utilizing it as a light-weight batter for home made onion rings. Significantly, it’s so good. I additionally combine it into my home made granola earlier than baking—it creates these tremendous crunchy, toasted clusters. And I’m actually solely into granola for the clusters.
Subsequent on my record is the salted honey focaccia. Any favourite issues to do with it or eat with it?
I've a batch of this fermenting as I write this! It’s one among my favorites! I personally suppose it pairs so effectively with many cheeses. Any cheese you wish to drizzle honey on is an ideal match. It additionally makes a sandwich so great that you just’ll wish to inform your mother about it. My excellent mixture is ricotta, scorching pickled chiles to steadiness the honey, roasted fennel, and a few arugula. Mamma mia!
THREE EXCITING RECIPES FROM THE SWEET SIDE OF SOURDOUGH:
Malted Milk and Dark Chocolate Tart
Sourdough starter comes into play right here in each the filling and the tart crust, including a dynamic savory high quality to the 2 varieties of chocolate.
Salted Honey Focaccia
Do this slathered with ricotta or as the bottom for a spicy sandwich.
Fig Dark Chocolate Brownies
These deliver collectively the jammy sweetness of figs with the fruitiness of darkish chocolate.