The candy potato is transportive in Bryant Terry’s newest e-book, Black Food, revealed below his new 4 Shade Books imprint. (See our recent interview discussing some thrilling plans within the works.) One of many first items of writing I landed on whereas paging by means of the e-book was a brief essay from rocket scientist and whole-hog pitmaster Howard Conyers.
He tells the story of an heirloom candy potato (“the sweetest potato I've ever eaten”), and the steps his father took to domesticate and age the tuber as if it had been a dear rib eye. The end result of the harvest was a tray of the potatoes, cooked within the golden coals of a barbecue pit, served merely (simply hearth, potato, salt) and abundantly—three to 4 kilos at a time. To say I craved my very own tray of sugary potatoes after studying these strains is downplaying issues. A grabbed a clutch on a go to to an area farmers market the following day. Plans had been made.
This isn’t the candy potato’s solely star flip within the e-book. Chef Kia Damon’s contribution to Black Meals has dwelling cooks slicing stone-ground white grits with the flesh of roasted candy potatoes, which ups the custardiness. Lani Halliday, of Brooklyn’s thrilling Brutus Bakeshop, paid homage to NYC’s iconic black and white cookies with a “pink and gold” cookie, laced all through with candy potato. “The candy potato’s significance within the weight loss program and historical past of Black of us within the area can't be overstated,” she observes, an concept that's echoed all through the textual content.
In Rahanna Bisseret Martinez’s essay, “How Black Mind Informs the Way forward for Cooking Reveals,” the Prime Chef Junior finalist imagines the candy potato as a metaphor for the “Black American existence,” utilizing a scene from Ralph Ellison’s Invisible Man to construct her case. (As an apart, you also needs to take a look at Bisseret Martinez’s essay on TASTE about the pliable comforts of agua de jamaica.
But for me, the best candy potato revelation from studying Black Meals is Betty Vandy’s recipe and reflection on stewed candy potato leaves. The roughage is a fixture in Sierra Leone, the place the leaves are ready as a stewy plasas and are “as African as you will get.” Vandy’s method for cooking the leaves with okra, eggplant, and butter beans led me down a YouTube cooking video rabbit hole. Now, with America’s nice candy potato vacation approaching, it’s apparent that it’s time to sit back with the marshmallows, search out the greens, and assume a bit of bit extra about how candy potatoes might be celebrated in so many alternative methods.